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LACE-MAKING

Audio: Lace-making

Lace-making here refers to drawn-thread work (merezhka) — a technique of openwork decoration in which some of the cross or lengthwise threads are drawn out of the cloth, and those that remain are gathered and bound into a transparent pattern. It is a form of 'whitework' widespread in Ukrainian folk dress: merezhka adorned the collars, cuffs, hems of shirts and ritual towels, creating light latticed bands. Merezhka demands a sharp eye and precision, since one works literally with the individual threads of the cloth. The result is a refined, almost weightless transparent lace built into the fabric itself. Today the technique is prized for an authentic delicacy that cannot be faked by machine.

Mereshka is a Ukrainian openwork embroidery technique where fabric threads are partially pulled out and interwoven into complex patterns. Poltava mereshka-belt is one of the most complex techniques in the world, requiring years of training and extraordinary patience.

Regional schools: Poltava (most complex), Kyiv, Chernihiv, Pereyaslav. Classic motifs: single, paired, broken, rhomboid. In modern fashion, mereshka is reimagined by brands Etnodim, Yuliya Magdych, Vita Kin, Spell — for white wedding dresses, summer blouses, festive towels. This is not just decor but intangible UNESCO heritage connecting generations of Ukrainian needlewomen.

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